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RE: Here is a repo Tiffin beauty !
This is a good buy. I wish it were around when I was looking for a motorhome. The Zephyr is the top of the line Tiffin and has a lot going for it. In a few years we will be stepping up to one but we are happy with our Bus for now. It gives us what we want.
As for being used....that is a GOOD thing. Somebody else got the bugs out of it already. EVERY coach has some problems; some more than others. A 2 year old coach with 6811 miles on it is a great buy. Tiffin stands behind their products and will make things right for the customer.
If I had the $$$ and did not already have a great coach I would snatch this one up.
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SRDJ
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11/14/08 10:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Packin while on the road
First...it is only a matter of time before the moderators close this thread because of where these kinds of threads usually lead....to arguments and name calling.
Second...if you don't live in the USA and have not seen up close and personal to what we have imported or what has become of many cities then you don't have a clue what can and does happen to nice folks who are in the wrong place at the wrong time.
Third...there are many nut cases out there that DO carry firearms in their RVs and I fear them as much as the other nut cases who also carry guns but are bent on using them to rob, rape, or kill for a few bucks, for religious reasons, or for sport.
I don't want or need to support to anyone my personal reasons for carrying or not carrying a firearm either on my person, in my home or in my RV. If you do choose to carry then please be sure you know the laws of each state and country you visit. Take the time to really know how to use your firearm or leave it at home. Inexperience and lack of good judgement can ruin many lives.
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SRDJ
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11/14/08 09:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Winterizing-if you had the choice?
I think what one does to winterize depends on what they have relative to the type of coach and it's construction, plumbing exposure and heating capabilities along with where they live and their experience with winter conditions where the MH is kept.
When I lived in a very cold winter area I did the full RV antifreeze process and charged the batteries each month with the generator. The coach was kept in an unheated storage garage with no AC. Now I live in the desert with the coach next to the house with a power cord to the coach. What I do now is very different from where I used to live.
Generally, if your storage conditions subject the RV to extended periods of below freezing conditions then full winterizing seems to be the most logicial step to prevent damage from freezing water systems and tanks.
If you can plug in the coach to keep it warm you risk the possibility of power failures and subsquent freezing of the plumbing. The amount of risk is dependent upon how soon one can intervene and get the RV warmed up to prevent freezing.
Blowing out with compressed air is risky business unless you are either very good or very lucky. Small amounts of water in exposed plastic plumbing or in valves will freeze and can split connections, hoses, or pipes. It is a "pay me now...or pay me later" proposition. I do blow out but then add RV antifreeze because I don't believe I can ever be 100% confident enough water is removed to prevent a freeze somewhere in the system. I also have an Aqua Hot system and it is way to risky to not add antifreeze to the water lines in that system.
However, when I know I am going to use the coach frequently, I will just blow it out, add some RV antifreeze to the tanks and sink/shower traps and keep the Aquahot system on electric to keep it above freezing. Living where it rarely stays below freezing for more than a few hours a night makes this a reasonable thing to do along with having the coach on site to monitor it.
If I lived back in northern IL vs here in southern Utah I would do the full winterization every time I finished using the coach. It is cheap insurance and only adds a few $ to the maintenance but will prevent BIG $$$$ in repairs and damage.
Pay me now...or pay me later...do what makes the most sense for your situation.
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SRDJ
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10/28/08 11:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How many have pre trip jitters?
A little worry is a healthy thing...it keeps you alert and that keeps you alive.
We take our time getting ready for a long trip. I keep most of the usual stuff in the MH all the time so I don't need to remember to put it in there. DW takes care of the food...I haul the clothes and we check every thing out twice before we are GO.
That said...stuff does happen. Transmission failure 300 miles from anywhere...furnace failure in winter...toad battery failure...silde problems...sewer hose leaks...black tank overflow....etc.
One our last long trip I managed to crack my head on an open slide and required several stiches to fix it. I still drove through San Antonio rush hour traffic and we made the drive to the next campground before the office closed the gates for the night.
Be prepared, be cautious, be alert but don't be paranoid. Life is full of the unexpected and anything with as many systems and parts as today's RVs has a high likelyhood of some kind of failure. Plan for it and you won't be as stressed out.
Oh,....don't forget to enjoy yourself.
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SRDJ
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10/28/08 12:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Pressure Pro "air loss"
What happened to the outside temperature during the time you noticed a loss of pressure in all your tires?
Outside (ambient) temperature will affect your tire pressure. Rain or even a cloudy day can too as can sun on one side of your coach for most of the day. Before you blame Pressure Pro double check what the ambient temperatures were as well as elevation changes during your trip.
We experienced a 10 psi drop in several tires during a cold rain storm after drive for most of a day. When it stopped raining the tire pressures went back up.
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SRDJ
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10/20/08 12:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: So, do we have a lemon or just incredibly bad luck?
How about this one for a lemon...previous Class C coach we owned for 8 months.
Transmission failure 300 miles from the nearest repair facility...required towing.
Air bag failure.
Heater failure.
Major leak in cab area...think buckets of water on the dash.
Refer. failure.
Kingdome failure.
etc.
Oh, the coach was 4 months old when we bought it from the factory. We sold it back to them after 8 months of ownership. The coach was taken back to the factory for a month for them to fix all the issues adn check for any we missed. Long story short...it had new problems the day we received it...that was it for us.
Now that was a lemon.
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SRDJ
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10/17/08 11:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: All those Warranty/Registration Cards
Oh yes...those cards. I must have mailed in 20+ of those things. Never got a single spam email or junk mail from any of them....but I did have warranty work on about 5 of those items already. Glad I sent them in so the mfg. had a record to honor the warranty.
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SRDJ
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10/16/08 07:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Drop hitch for toad
I have a 6 inch drop receiver inverted to raise the tow bar up to the base plate. That makes it just a hair lower than the receiver on the motorhome.
Blue OX specifies that the tow bar base plate connection is to be level or no more than 4 inches above the base plate connection but never lower than the receiver on the motorhome. The reason for this is safety. If you stop very quickly the toad can submarine the motorhome if there is tow bar to base plate is lower than the receiver (on flat ground). There is some "play here" so nothing is exact...just what they recommend based on their engineering and experience. A coach with little overhang might allow more leeway than one with a lot of overhang.
I just set it up per their requirement so I won't have to worry about it. They made it; they should know how to set it up.
CAUTION: It is important that the attachment
points at the center of the attachment tabs and
the center of the coach's hitch receiver should be
of equal distance. If a deviation must be present,
it should be no more than four (4) inches from the
tabs up to the hitch receiver. There should be no
deviation allowed for the hitch receiver tube to be
below the level of the attachment tabs. Refer to
Figure 2.
SRDJ, if I understand your statement correctly, I'm afraid you might be misinterpreting the leveling requirement for the tow bar.
If I read you right, you say that the tow bar can rise from the back of the coach to the front of the car in order to avoid the car "submarining." Actually, just the opposite is true.
The car is not likely to dive under the RV and raise up the back of the RV, simply because of the overwhelming weight of the RV.
Blue Ox says that there should be no more than 4" from the tabs (the connection to the car) UP TO the hitch receiver tube. The problem is that if the car end of the tow bar is too high, the car can rise up and possibly even hit the rear end of the coach, similar to what was described by a poster above.
Here is the link to the Blue Ox instructions with the figure showing the allowable 4" drop from the coach down to the front of the car.
I am saying the same thing....just describing it a bit differently...from the car baseplate to the motorhome..Blue Ox relates it from the motorhome receiver to the tabs on the towbar (which match the connector on the base plate on the car)....same thing...just worded differently.
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SRDJ
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10/15/08 11:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Drop hitch for toad
I have a 6 inch drop receiver inverted to raise the tow bar up to the base plate. That makes it just a hair lower than the receiver on the motorhome.
Blue OX specifies that the tow bar base plate connection is to be level or no more than 4 inches above the base plate connection but never lower than the receiver on the motorhome. The reason for this is safety. If you stop very quickly the toad can submarine the motorhome if there is tow bar to base plate is lower than the receiver (on flat ground). There is some "play here" so nothing is exact...just what they recommend based on their engineering and experience. A coach with little overhang might allow more leeway than one with a lot of overhang.
I just set it up per their requirement so I won't have to worry about it. They made it; they should know how to set it up.
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SRDJ
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10/15/08 08:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Un-desireable campsites ...
We would like to stay at National or State Parks but very very few have spaces large enough for our rig and those that do have them reserved months in advance. We tend to travel on short notice so reservations at far flung Nat. or State parks are not much of an option...and getting left out in the cold if we can't find a non-reserved space is not an option.
As for long-term "campers" in some campgrounds...they give the campground owner a steady income in uncertain times. Especially in the boonies where RV traffic may be limited most of the year. We have stayed in several campgrounds where more than 30% of the "campers" were long term. We had no problems at these parks. But, we have also said "No thanks" to some parks once we saw them. As someone said earlier...it is the condition of the park far more than how long some one is there that is the issue. Trashy parks don't get my business.
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SRDJ
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10/15/08 08:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Pressure pro monitors
The better question is....does RF in the RV cause problems with the Pressure Pro? The answer is ....maybe. The Pressure Pro can deal with a lot of RF in the area where it is installed but if the area it too "loud" it can't read the tire sensors. There is a way to read the relative amount of RF the Pressure Pro is seeing; it is in the manual.
We have had a number of issues with our unit; including a software problem that was corrected by re-programming the unit with the current software revision (sticker on the back of the unit). I have not had a chance to try it out yet but will in the next week or so.
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SRDJ
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10/11/08 10:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Passport America Input
We had it for a year but never used it. We could either not find a campground that would give us the 50% rate or we could not find one we we would fit into. We dropped it as we did Campclub...too hard to find one where we fit where we go.
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SRDJ
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10/11/08 09:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Aqua hot - diesel smell in bathroom
Check the air intake under the coach that feeds air to the Aquahot. The rubber sleeve has a tendancy to close up and restrict the air flow into the burner. That will make the fuel mix too rich which will make it smell and smoke.
I cut out a metal mesh to put up there to keep the sleeve open.
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SRDJ
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10/05/08 09:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: King Dome - In Motion - Like It?? - Mine's terrible
If you can...get on the roof and check the voltage on the main coax INTO the dish. It has to be 24 volts for the dome to work. The power goes from the tuner and up the coax to the dish. The seconday coax only carries the satellite signal down to the secondary receiver.
If you have 24 volts on the main cable at the dish, your tuner and coax are working. If the dish won't move it might be a bad motor, board, or connection inside the dish.
Is your Dishnetwork receiver working properly? I had to run Check Switch over 10 times before it finally found all the satellites.
Good luck.
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SRDJ
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10/05/08 09:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: CC Veranda 400 140 lbs carry weight
Sorry --Incorrect
see: Axle weight ratings
Good stuff ! Are RV's considered in the same class as Semi's ?
In a word...Yes.
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SRDJ
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10/04/08 11:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Anyone have a Pressure Pro alert due to mis-read of sensor?
I can't see how a truck tire sensor would be picked up by your Pressure Pro unit. Each sensor is "programmed" into the monitor with a unique signature. They won't work if you move them from one tire to another without re-programming them to that wheel location.
I have seen all kinds of strange stuff with mine. The worst was right after a sudden rain storm when 3 of the sensors alamed with a low pressure. I got off the freeway and checked them. No problems were found. I sat and waited for a few minutes and all was well until I got a block from the place I checked them....3 alarmed again. I gave up and kept going. Later that day the alarm condition went away by itself.
More recently, I had two tires that would not send a reading. They showed as present but no pressure. I found out the problem was with the monitor....bad software according to Pressure Pro. They sent me a new monitor and all is well for now.
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SRDJ
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09/30/08 09:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How often is length an issue?
We went from a 32 ft Class C to a 42 foot Class A. It was a huge change in everything you can imagine.
Length and width height and weight all make a difference. We went from a 32 foot coach 7.8 feet wide...32 feet long...11 feet high with a weight of 16,000 lbs. to a coach with 8+feet wide...12.5 feet high...42.5 feet long (64feet with toad) and 42,500 lbs. (47,500) with the toad. That is a very big difference.
The largest differences were in the two coaches handled. The C was had to see out of and hard to see the rear of the coach due to the design of a C. All they utility systems were smaller...smaller beds, smaller seating areas...smaller tanks...far less storage areas. Also over-all storage of stuff was very constrained in the C.
The Class A has literaly tons of storage (11000 lbs of capacity)and many places to tuck it all away. We can sleep 8+ people comfortably. We have an extra vanity sink and cabinets in the master bed room which allows two folks to get ready at one time. Some rigs have washer/dryers and dishwashers too. A computerized air bag ride makes the rig handel much better on the highway than our C. Cross winds are far less of an issue and we blow trucks over instead of them pushing us around when passing us.
Sure we can't get into many campgrounds but there are many we can. You just have to do a little more homework.
BTY...Big Rig Friendly is really an Oxymoron. Most campgrounds seem to think a site that is 40 feet long and 15 feet wide will accomodate a Big Rig. And that is if they measured right. No room for slides, very tight turns and sometimes no accessibility to some basement doors. Don't for get trees. These can be a problem getting in, getting out or even being able to use your slides in a site.
But, for us, the longer rig is fine. We know where we should not go and we don't go there. It is the unknown stuff that presents the challenges....consecutive 90 degree turns in thick woods over narrow bridges and dodging pickup trucks parked in the roadway just enough to make it very hard to turn past it on a narrow campground road.
It all comes with practice.
Note that CA has some roads that are forbidden to motorhomes over 40 feet long. Other states also have similar restrictions. Again, you have to plan ahead more but the quality of the ride and the storage capacity make up for it.
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SRDJ
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09/20/08 11:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tiffin Motorhomes????
I have a 42 foot Allegro Bus. I have not been to Red Bay as I use local dealers or do some of the simple stuff myself. However, if I ever need major body work done I would go to the factory to have it done since they built it.
We went from a 32 foot Class C to a 42 foot Class A with tag. Length has pros and cons. For us the pros out weigh the cons. It was an informed choice and we don't regret it. Sure we can't get into most State and National Parks but we always take the toad so we can stay close by and enjoy all the parks have to offer without being restricted to only where we can park. We don't really do much NF camping but could if we wanted to. We have dome some BLM and other boondocking but with advanced planning to make sure we fit.
I bought my Tiffin because of the general reputation it had with the owners and the great customer service we get from the factory. They are more than willing to "farm out" work to qualified local shops and we have done so several times as we live 2000 miles from the factory.
They stand behind their coachs, even when some are not perfect after the warranty. We would buy another one once we wear ours out in 10 or so years.
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SRDJ
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09/20/08 11:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: info on Hydro-Hot heating
Add to the list:
Unlimited hot water.
Engine Pre Heat
Engine heats water while underway
Basement heating
Zone heating
About as noisy as propane.
Some units smell put some may be related to how it is set up.
DW has some health issues which make long hot showers pretty much a requirement. Can't do that with a 6 or 10 gallon tank and propane heater.
If you boondock you might consider solar to keep the batteries up as the cycling of the various motors and the ignition process can eat up a fair amount of 12 volt. You can run the system on AC but the heater is pretty small and will not heat your coach in temps below about 55 degrees.
Yes, it takes up a lot of basement space but so do a propane water heater, propane furnace and a large LP gas tank to keep them all running.
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SRDJ
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09/19/08 11:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I love Utah !
I see a lot of <$4.00 /gallon diesel here now. Nice to see it dropping. That will save us a few hundred $ on our next trip.
FWIW, Utah gas prices are still 23 cents higher than the national average and it is not the tax portion.
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SRDJ
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09/04/08 11:57pm |
General RVing Issues
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